Visiting Hashima (Gunkanjima): Abandoned on Battleship Island
Updated: April 27th, 2024.
Hashima Island, a speck of concrete jutting out from the East China Sea, has a long and complicated history. Nicknamed Gunkanjima, or “Battleship Island,” its moniker speaks volumes about its imposing presence. This island, once a teeming hive of industry, now stands deserted.
For the dark tourist, Hashima Island beckons with a morbid allure, a promise to explore the remnants of a society swallowed whole by the tides of change.

From Bustling Coal Mine to Desolate Outcrop
Hashima’s story is one of boom and bust, a microcosm of Japan’s own rapid industrialisation. Discovered in the late 1800s, the island’s hidden treasure wasn’t gold, but black gold: coal. Undersea mines burrowed deep beneath the island, and to house the growing workforce, an architectural marvel rose from the sea. Concrete tentacles snaked across the tiny island, creating a multi-tiered city stacked on itself. Apartment blocks shouldered next to schools, hospitals, and even a cinema, all crammed onto a mere 6.3 hectares. At its peak, over 5,000 people lived on Hashima, a community packed like sardines and existing in a marriage of nature and industry.
Citizens of Hashima would have grown used to the ever-present thrum of machinery alongside the rhythmic crash of waves against the seawall. Children would play tag between drying laundry strung across balconies, their laughter competing with the clang of the mine elevator. Wives would wave goodbye to husbands venturing into the inky depths, their faces etched with a mixture of worry and pride. Life on Hashima was undoubtedly harsh, but it pulsated with the energy of a young nation on the rise.
However, the island’s prosperity was built on a dark foundation. World War II saw a dramatic shift in Hashima’s fortunes. Korean labourers, along with Chinese prisoners of war, were brought in to replace the dwindling Japanese workforce. These individuals were forced into gruelling labour under horrific conditions, many perishing in the mines or from sheer exhaustion. Hashima Island, once a symbol of Japan’s industrial might, became a grim testament to the human cost of war.
The post-war years brought a swift decline. Oil replaced coal as the primary fuel source, and the mines of Hashima became increasingly unprofitable. By 1974, the inevitable happened. The last dredges of coal were hauled up, and the island was abruptly abandoned. Residents left behind their belongings, as if expecting to return one day. But that day never came.

A Modern Ghost Town
Today, nature has begun to reclaim its dominion. Vines snake through concrete cracks, and the ever-present sea spray leaves a patina of rust on abandoned machinery. Tours are now available, allowing visitors a glimpse into this unsettling time capsule.
As you approach Hashima on the ferry, the skeletal buildings slowly come into view. The air hangs heavy with a strange stillness, broken only by the lapping of waves against the seawall. Disembarking, you step onto a concrete island seemingly frozen in time. Crumbling tenements line narrow streets, their empty windows staring out to sea.
Climbing the rusting staircases, you enter an apartment building. Wallpaper peels limply from the walls, revealing faded floral patterns. A child’s tricycle leans against a wall. The silence is thick, broken only by the creaking of your own footsteps. It’s a place that sparks the imagination, where shadows seem to hold secrets and every rustle of wind whispers stories of the past.
Here are some key spots you can expect to see on your visit:
The Apartments: These crumbling concrete giants are the most recognisable feature of Hashima. Walking through them allows you to step back in time, imagining the lives once lived within these walls. These seemingly mundane details paint a vivid picture of the island’s former community.
The Schoolyard: Standing in the empty schoolyard, it’s easy to imagine the shrieks of children playing games during their breaks. The abandoned classrooms evoke a sense of loss, a reminder of the dreams and aspirations cut short by the island’s closure.
The Mine Tunnels (Limited Access): A select few tours offer a glimpse into the labyrinthine tunnels that snaked beneath the island. Exploring these dark, damp spaces provides a chilling reminder of the harsh realities faced by the miners. Be aware, access to these areas is often restricted due to safety concerns.
The Abandoned Supermarket: The remains of a supermarket offer a fascinating glimpse into daily life on Hashima. Imagine residents browsing shelves stocked with meagre supplies, a small taste of normalcy amidst the harsh industrial environment.
The Shinto Shrine: Sat amongst the concrete giants, this small shrine offers a surprising touch of serenity. It serves as a reminder of the spiritual beliefs that provided solace to the island’s inhabitants.
Remember, Hashima is a constantly evolving landscape. Some structures may be inaccessible due to safety concerns, and the tour itinerary may change depending on the operator. However, these key locations provide a powerful window into the island’s complex past.
Ethical Considerations
It would be remiss not to acknowledge the ethical considerations surrounding dark tourism on Hashima. The island’s dark history, particularly the forced labour during WWII, raises questions about profiting from tragedy. There are ongoing debates about the balance between historical preservation and exploiting a sensitive site for tourism purposes.
Some argue that allowing visitors access to Hashima raises awareness about the horrors of forced labour and the human cost of war. The island serves as a physical manifestation of history, a place where visitors can connect with the past on a deeper level. By confronting the uncomfortable truths, we can ensure such atrocities are never repeated.
However, others argue that sanitised tours trivialise the suffering endured by those forced to work on the island. They believe Hashima should be left undisturbed, a place of respect and remembrance for the victims. The focus, they argue, should be on education and reconciliation, not on profiting from a dark chapter in history.
Ultimately, the decision of whether or not to visit Hashima is a personal one. There are valid arguments on both sides of the debate. However, for those who choose to go, it’s crucial to approach the experience with respect and sensitivity. Hashima is not a theme park. It’s a place steeped in history, a sombre reminder of the darkest aspects of humanity. Visiting requires an open mind and a willingness to learn.

Tourist Information
Location: Hashima Island lies roughly 15 kilometres off the coast of Nagasaki, Japan.
How to Get There: Due to safety concerns, landings on Hashima Island are not permitted. The only way to experience the island is through a guided tour departing from Nagasaki Port. Several companies offer tours, and it’s recommended to book in advance, especially during peak season (spring and autumn). Tours typically last around 3 hours and include transportation to the island, a guided commentary onboard the ferry, and a walk around designated observation decks with breathtaking views.
Opening Times: Tour times vary depending on the operator, but most depart Nagasaki Port in the morning and return in the afternoon. Be sure to check the specific timings of your chosen tour company.
Prices: Expect to pay between ¥4,000 and ¥7,000 (US$35-US$60) for a basic tour. Prices may vary depending on the duration of the tour and any additional inclusions.
Dress Code: Safety is paramount. Comfortable, closed-toe shoes are essential as you’ll be navigating uneven surfaces and metal walkways. The sea breeze can be cool, so consider layering with a light jacket or sweater, especially during the cooler months.
Additional Tips
- Weather Matters: Hashima Island tours are subject to cancellation due to bad weather, particularly during typhoon season (late summer/early autumn) and winter months with rough seas. Be sure to check the forecast before booking your tour.
- Respect the Past: Remember, Hashima Island has a complex and often tragic history. Be mindful of your behaviour while visiting, and avoid any actions that could be construed as disrespectful.
- Photography Enthusiasts: Hashima offers a unique opportunity for photographers. A good zoom lens is recommended to capture details from the observation decks. However, be aware that some tours may have restrictions on tripods or selfie sticks.
- Accessibility: Unfortunately, most Hashima tours are not wheelchair accessible due to the uneven terrain and narrow walkways on the island.
- Post-Tour Exploration: Nagasaki City itself offers a wealth of historical and cultural attractions. Consider exploring the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum or the Glover Garden, a charming 19th-century district with European-style residences.