Visiting La Recoleta Cemetery: Resting Place of Eva Perón

Visiting La Recoleta Cemetery: Resting Place of Eva Perón

Updated: August 17th, 2024.

La Recoleta Cemetery is a city of the dead, a wide, labyrinthine expanse where stories of love, power, and tragedy remain forever enshrined. The moment you step through its iron gates and pass the magnificently carved façades, the graves urge you inside to explore the lives they once had. 

Its cobblestoned avenues wind through a maze of tombs, each more elaborate than the last, flaunting the grandeur of neoclassical architecture. But perhaps what draws dark tourists from around the world is the tomb of Argentina’s beloved First Lady, Eva Perón—forever known as Evita. Her grave is a beacon for those who wish to connect with a past that is both glorious and tumultuous, a past that still reverberates through the heart of Buenos Aires.

Recoleta Cemetery tombs

The History Of The Cemetery

The cemetery’s origins date back to the year 1732. It was then a small and unimportant burial ground, newly established by the Recollect Friars, whose monastery once stood on the grounds where the cemetery now lies. Over the years, as Buenos Aires grew to became a cosmopolitan capital, La Recoleta became a resting place for the city’s elite. Today, it serves as an archive of Argentine history—a city of tombs and statues, reminders of a nation’s passage through revolution, civil war, and modernity. 

The architectural splendour of the cemetery is a tribute to the greatness encased within its walls. The mausoleums are not just mere graves, but monuments built with marble and granite, decked with angels, crosses, and tortuous engravings that speak to the craftsmanship of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The neoclassical design dominates, but a stroll through its winding alleys reveals a medley of styles—Gothic spires here, Art Deco embellishments there—all blending harmoniously in a quiet celebration of life and death.

Among the illustrious names that grace La Recoleta’s registry are politicians, military leaders, and artists who have shaped Argentina’s identity. The resting places of presidents such as Domingo Faustino Sarmiento and Bartolomé Mitre sit alongside those of Nobel laureates and famous poets.

Each mausoleum is replete with a story from South America, etched in stone for those inclined to read, a window into lives that once shook the nation.

Eva Perón's Tomb

Eva Perón’s journey to La Recoleta was not easy. After her death in 1952, the embalmed body of Evita would be the protagonist of one of history’s most extraordinary posthumous odysseys. Her embalmed body was hidden, moved, and even exiled in a political tug-of-war that mirrored the acute division she had come to inspire in life. It was not until 1976, over two decades after her death, that she was finally buried in the Duarte family vault at La Recoleta—a fitting end to a life that had been anything but ordinary.

The tomb of Eva Perón is nondescript at first glance, especially in comparison with the grandiose mausoleums that surround it. At the far corner of the cemetery, the Duarte family tomb is simple, black marble—that is all, except the plaques and flowers placed by admirers. Barely anything, really, but the emotions it evokes are powerful. What really attracts visitors is not the grandeur of the tomb itself but what the woman inside has left. Her own tomb has become a sort of sanctuary to those who remember her as the advocate of the poor, the voice of the descamisados. Her tomb has created a place of pilgrimage; where visitors from all walks of life come to pay their respects, leaving behind notes, prayers, and mementos.

To many, Eva Perón’s tomb is not only the last chapter in her colourful life but also the eternal struggle of the Argentine people. Her memory continues stirring the hearts of all who visit to remind them of a time when she stood beacon-like for hope for the downtrodden. Here, in this silent corner of La Recoleta, amidst the quiet shadows, her memory will live on.

Eva Peron Tomb Sign

The Visitor Experience

Walking through La Recoleta is enthralling but also a slightly disorienting. The cemetery’s layout is a maze, its paths twisting and turning in ways that can easily disorient the unprepared visitor. Around each corner, one experiences new discoveries: an elaborately carved angel here, a moss-covered statue there—each one telling an individual story in a stone.

Those who go to La Recoleta must equip themselves with a map or go on a guided tour. Visits to the cemetery of La Recoleta can be made by the visitor independently or can be guided; both have their merits. A visitor has freedom when going on a self-guided tour, moving at one’s leisure and independently, ideal for those wanting to stop and ponder or take photographs of this exquisite architecture. A guided tour, on the other hand, provides the tourist with contextual information on the history and the importance of the mausoleums and the people buried there. A dramatic cemetery with its stories and guides manage to connect the past with the present as none of the tourists know it.

The atmosphere of La Recoleta is one of serene melancholy, a place where time seems to stand still. The cemetery’s quietude is occasionally punctuated by the distant sound of bells or the rustling of leaves in the wind. The air is so reverential that the very earth seems to hold the memories of the people lying in it. Many visiting describe the surreal emotions they experience and still, a certain amount of awe at the beauty of the mausoleums, or a feeling of peace; one is all alone, but at the same time, there is such a deep inexplicable connection to the past.

Many will visit La Recoleta and leave with their own stories: an encounter with a stray cat, a sudden downpour that seemed to fit the mood of the place, or feeling like you were being watched by the statues keeping their guard over the tombs. Those personal little experiences add so much to the value of the place, such that each visit becomes unique and memorable.

Cultural and Symbolic Importance

La Recoleta Cemetery is more than just a dark tourism spot, or a place for mortal remains; it is an insight into mortality, memory, and the passing of time. It gives one quiet space to relate to the transience of life and what happens after—what we will leave behind. The mausoleums carry fading inscriptions and wearied statues to remind us that even grand lives will someday be reduced to mere memories and stone. Yet, it is in this very reminder that the beauty of La Recoleta lies—a beauty that transcends time, linking the living with the dead in a silent, eternal dialogue.

Eva Perón’s legacy is a central part of this dialogue. Her tomb at La Recoleta is not just a grave; it is a symbol of the enduring power of memory. For most Argentines, Evita represents a time during which the common people’s dreams had a voice, a time when the gulf between rich and poor was bridgeable. Her funeral has now become a site of reflection on her life but also on the ideals she stood for, ideals that are echoed today in Argentina and across various other countries.

Recoleta Cemetery Dark Tourism

Last Word

Every visit to La Recoleta Cemetery truly is different. It is a journey through the past of Argentina, a stroll through history that speaks as much about the men and women who built this nation as it does those who come to visit today. Its beauty lies not in its architecture but in the stories it keeps—stories manifold and complex, as lives are.

For everyone whos is interested in dark tourism in South America, and who visits Buenos Aires, La Recoleta is a must-visit, a place where the past is never dead, where history and memory meet, and where the legacy of figures like Eva Perón continues to inspire. All in all, a visit to La Recoleta could be to pay respect to the history, the creative work of making the mausoleums, or just a self-reflection that could leave one deeply touched.

Tourist Information

Location: La Recoleta Cemetery is located in the Recoleta neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina. The main entrance is at Junín 1760, near the intersection with Avenida Alvear.

How to Get There:

  • By Taxi/Uber: The easiest way to reach the cemetery is by taxi or Uber, both of which are widely available in Buenos Aires.
  • By Public Transport: You can take the Subte (Subway) Line D to the “Facultad de Derecho” station, which is about a 10-minute walk from the cemetery. Alternatively, several bus lines, including 17, 61, 62, 67, and 92, stop near the cemetery.
  • On Foot: If you’re staying in the Recoleta or Palermo neighbourhoods, La Recoleta Cemetery is within walking distance, offering a pleasant stroll through one of the city’s most elegant areas.

Opening Times:

  • Monday to Friday: 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM
  • Weekends and Public Holidays: 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM

Prices:

  • Entrance Fee: As of the latest information, entry to La Recoleta Cemetery is free of charge. However, donations are often appreciated, and there may be a fee for guided tours.
  • Guided Tours: Prices for guided tours vary depending on the provider and the type of tour. Typically, they range from $10 to $20 USD per person.

Dress Code: There is no strict dress code for visiting La Recoleta Cemetery, but it is advisable to dress respectfully since it is a place of burial and reflection. Casual attire is generally acceptable, but avoid overly revealing clothing.

Additional Tips

  • Best Time to Visit: The cemetery is less crowded early in the morning or later in the afternoon, offering a more serene experience. Also, visiting during weekdays is advisable if you wish to avoid large tourist groups.
  • Photography: La Recoleta is a photographer’s paradise, with its dramatic mausoleums and intricate statues. Feel free to take photos, but be mindful of other visitors, especially those who may be there to pay their respects.
  • Bring a Map: The cemetery’s layout can be confusing, so grabbing a map at the entrance or downloading one online beforehand can help you navigate more easily.
  • Watch Your Step: The paths are uneven in some areas, and the cobblestones can be slippery, especially after rain. Wear comfortable shoes and be cautious while walking.
  • Mind the Cats: The cemetery is home to a number of cats that are well-cared for by local volunteers. They’re friendly but prefer to be admired from a distance.
  • Language: While some guided tours are available in English, many of the signs and inscriptions are in Spanish. If you don’t speak the language, consider taking an English-speaking guide to get the most out of your visit.
  • Plan for Weather: Buenos Aires can be hot in the summer and chilly in the winter. Bring water and wear sunscreen in the warmer months, and consider bringing a light jacket if visiting during the cooler season.
  • Nearby Attractions: After your visit, consider exploring the Recoleta neighbourhood, which is known for its beautiful parks, cafes, and cultural sites such as the Recoleta Cultural Center and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes.

Additional Resources

  • “Evita: The Real Life of Eva Perón” by Nicholas Fraser and Marysa Navarro
    This biography provides a comprehensive look at Eva Perón’s life, delving into the complexities of her influence in Argentina and offering context to her final resting place at La Recoleta Cemetery.
  • “La Recoleta: The City of the Dead”
    A documentary that explores the history, architecture, and stories of La Recoleta Cemetery, providing viewers with a deeper understanding of its significance.
  • Recoleta Cemetery Blog
    A dedicated blog that offers detailed descriptions, historical insights, and practical tips for visiting La Recoleta Cemetery.
  • Free Walking Tours Buenos Aires
    Offers free (tip-based) guided tours of La Recoleta Cemetery in both English and Spanish, led by knowledgeable guides who share fascinating historical anecdotes.