Visiting Pompeii: The City In Ash
Updated: April 23rd, 2024.
Pompeii. A city frozen in time, not by ice, but by a fiery wrath from the belly of the earth. It’s a place where every corner whispers a tale of a vibrant life extinguished in the blink of an eye. Let’s delve into the haunting beauty of Pompeii.

A City Alive, Then Buried
Once a bustling Roman metropolis nestled in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius. It’s cobbled streets were teeming with life – merchants hawking their wares, children chasing each other through courtyards, politicians bickering in the forum.
Founded around the 7th-6th century BC, Pompeii thrived on trade, agriculture, and a healthy dose of Roman leisure. Grand temples rose towards the sky, while theatres pulsed with the energy of plays and performances. Homes, adorned with frescoes depicting gods and heroes, bustled with daily life.
This vibrant city was ripped apart one fateful day in 79 AD. Vesuvius, long considered a peaceful mountain, unleashed its fury. The ground rumbled, the sky choked with ash, and a rain of fiery pumice rained down. People fled in terror, some seeking refuge in their homes, others desperately trying to escape the suffocating ash. It was a nightmare made real. Within a day, Pompeii was buried under a shroud of volcanic debris, its inhabitants forever entombed.
A City Unearthed
For centuries, Pompeii slumbered beneath the earth, forgotten. It wasn’t until the 16th century that accidental discoveries hinted at a buried Roman city. Systematic excavations in Europe began in the 18th century, slowly peeling back the layers of time. As Pompeii emerged from its ash cocoon, a lost world unfolded. Houses, with furniture still in place, bread still baking in ovens, offered a glimpse into the everyday lives of its inhabitants. Plaster casts of the Pompeiians, their final moments etched into the earth.
Pompeii’s rediscovery wasn’t just about the physical remains. It was a window into Roman society, a time capsule filled with everyday objects, architectural styles, and even graffiti scrawled on walls. It challenged our understanding of the past, revealing a complex and vibrant civilisation far removed from the stoic marble busts we often associate with Rome.

Experiencing Pompeii Today
Walking down the ancient streets, worn smooth by countless footsteps, is like stepping onto a movie set. You can almost hear the murmurs of the crowd, the clatter of carts, the echo of laughter.
There’s a heartbreaking intimacy to the ruins. Homes, with their central courtyards and colourful frescoes, paint a picture of domestic life. In a bakery, perfectly preserved loaves of bread sit in ovens. The haunting presence of the plaster casts – the baker frozen mid-knead, a young girl clutching her mother – is a reminder of the suddenness of the disaster.
Pompeii isn’t all frozen tragedy, however. The grandeur of the Roman forum, the intricate mosaics adorning the bathhouses, and the sheer scale of the amphitheatre all speak to the city’s former glory. There’s a beauty in the way nature has reclaimed the city – trees twist through the ruins, and wildflowers sprout from cracks in the pavement.
To truly delve into this dark tourist destination, let’s explore some of the most captivating (and sometimes shocking) sights you’ll encounter:
The Casts: Undoubtedly the most impactfull aspect of Pompeii are the plaster casts of victims, perfectly capturing their final moments. The baker, forever frozen mid-knead, his face contorted in agony, leaves a lasting impression. The young girl clutching her mother, a poignant display of familial love in the face of oblivion, is a heart-wrenching reminder of the human cost of the eruption. These casts aren’t just archaeological finds; they’re tragic sculptures, testaments to the individuals who perished.
The Brothel: Pompeii wasn’t all togas and temples. A visit to the Lupanar, the city’s brothel, offers a glimpse into a more scandalous side of life. Explicit frescoes depict sexual acts, while small, cramped rooms hint at the transactional nature of the business. It’s a fascinating window into Roman attitudes towards sexuality.
The Villa of the Mysteries: Unlike many Pompeian houses, the Villa of the Mysteries wasn’t pummelled by ash, but preserved under a layer of volcanic mud. The result? Breathtaking frescoes that adorn the walls, depicting a mysterious Dionysian ritual. The vibrant colours, intricate details, and enigmatic subject matter make this one of Pompeii’s most stunning archaeological finds.
The Forum: The heart of any Roman city, the forum in Pompeii bustles with activity even in its ruined state. Here, citizens gathered for political discussions, legal proceedings, and general socialising. Temples dedicated to Jupiter, Apollo, and Venus stand as testaments to the city’s religious life. It’s easy to imagine the forum teeming with toga-clad figures, their voices echoing through the stone plaza.
The Amphitheatre: Step into the sprawling amphitheatre and picture the roar of the crowd as gladiators battled or exotic animals were hunted. Imagine the spectacle of chariot races or theatrical performances that once filled this arena. The sheer size and architectural detail of the amphitheatre offer a glimpse into Roman entertainment at its most grandiose.
The Small Finds: Beyond the grand structures, it’s the everyday objects that truly bring Pompeii to life. A child’s doll, a bronze oil lamp, a set of surgical instruments – these seemingly mundane items speak volumes about the lives of the city’s inhabitants. These small finds weave a narrative of ordinary lives cut short, making the tragedy of Pompeii all the more real.
Beyond the Walls: Pompeii isn’t the only victim of Vesuvius’ wrath. Nearby towns like Herculaneum and Oplontis offer a different perspective on the eruption. Herculaneum, buried under a thick layer of ash, boasts remarkably well-preserved wooden furniture and even entire houses. Oplontis, a luxurious seaside resort, offers stunning frescoes and sprawling villas, showcasing the wealthier end of Roman society. Exploring these smaller sites provides a more complete picture of the disaster and the vibrant civilisation it engulfed.
A Place of Reflection
Visiting Pompeii allows you to witness first hand the forces of nature, their awesome power to both create and destroy. The graphic depictions of death and suffering can be unsettling. But for those who seek a deeper understanding of the past, who appreciate the power of a place to tell a story, Pompeii is a must-visit. It’s a good place to see a glimpse of dark tourism in Europe, yes, but it’s also a place of profound reflection, a reminder of the fleeting nature of existence, and the enduring power of the human spirit.

Tourist Information
Location: Pompeii is located in southern Italy, roughly two hours southeast of Naples and 30 kilometers inland from the Gulf of Naples.
Getting There:
- Train: The easiest way to reach Pompeii is by train from Naples. Take the Circumvesuviana train line from Napoli Garibaldi station to Pompei Scavi station. The journey takes about 30 minutes.
- Car: If you’re driving, take the A3 motorway towards Salerno and exit at Pompeii. Parking can be tricky, so consider using public transportation or organised tours that include transportation.
- Organised Tours: Many tour operators in Naples and Sorrento offer day trips to Pompeii, often combined with a visit to Mount Vesuvius.
Opening Times: Pompeii is open daily from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM (last entry at 3:30 PM). Opening hours may vary slightly depending on the season, so it’s best to check the official website for the latest information.
Prices: Tickets can be purchased online or at the entrance gates. A full-price ticket costs €18, with discounts available for EU citizens aged 18-24 and visitors over 65.
Dress Code: There’s no specific dress code, but comfortable shoes are essential as you’ll be doing a lot of walking on uneven terrain. Opt for loose, breathable clothing during the summer months and bring a light jacket or sweater for cooler days.
Additional Tips
- Bring water and snacks: There are limited vendors inside the site, so come prepared with refreshments.
- Bring sunscreen and a hat: The sun can be harsh, especially during peak season.
- Consider the heat: If you’re visiting during the summer months, plan your visit for the early morning or later afternoon to avoid the midday heat.
- Download the official Pompeii App: It offers an interactive map, audio guides (in multiple languages!), and historical information.
- Bring cash: While some vendors accept credit cards, it’s always a good idea to have cash on hand for smaller purchases.
- Be mindful of belongings: As with any crowded tourist destination, be aware of pickpockets. Keep your valuables secure in a crossbody bag or money belt.
- Respect the site: Remember, Pompeii is an archaeological site. Avoid touching frescoes or climbing on structures.
By following these tips, you can ensure a safe, enjoyable, and informative visit to this captivating dark tourism destination.