Visiting Robben Island: Exploring South Africa’s Apartheid History

Visiting Robben Island: Exploring South Africa’s Apartheid History

Updated: June 2nd, 2024.

Tucked away off the coast of Cape Town, South Africa, lies Robben Island—a place famous for its connection to South African history and one of the world’s most famous political prisoners. This small landmass in Table Bay has witnessed centuries of human drama, making it a symbol of resilience and resistance. Robben Island is a reminder of the realities of oppression and the indomitable will of those who fought against it. In this article, we will look into the history of the island, learning about what makes it such a famous dark tourism spot, and discover what it means to visit Robben Island today.

Robben Island sign, dark tourism site

History of Robben Island

Originally known to the indigenous Khoikhoi people, the island’s name is derived from the Dutch word for “seal” (robben), reflecting the colony of seals that once inhabited its shores. However, its significance extends far beyond its wildlife. Robben Island first gained notoriety as a place of banishment and isolation during the 17th century when the Dutch East India Company established a penal colony. It became a convenient location for exiling prisoners, political opponents, and outcasts, far away from the mainland. Throughout the centuries, it also served as a leper colony and a military base, with each era adding layers to its complex history.

The most infamous chapter in Robben Island’s history began in the mid-20th century during South Africa’s apartheid era. This period, marked by institutionalised racial segregation and discrimination, saw the island transformed into a maximum-security prison for political prisoners who opposed the oppressive regime. Apartheid, meaning “apartness” in Afrikaans, was a policy introduced by the National Party government in 1948. It enforced racial discrimination, dictating where people could live, work, and go to school based on their race. The apartheid regime’s harsh laws suppressed any opposition, leading to widespread unrest and resistance among the black majority and their allies.

Among the resistance leaders was Nelson Mandela, a key figure in the African National Congress (ANC), an organisation dedicated to ending apartheid and establishing equal rights for all South Africans. Mandela’s activism, marked by both nonviolent protests and later armed resistance, led to his arrest in 1962. In 1964, following the Rivonia Trial, he was sentenced to life imprisonment and sent to Robben Island.

Life for prisoners on Robben Island was brutal and dehumanising. Mandela and his fellow inmates were subjected to hard labour in the island’s limestone quarry, breaking rocks under the scorching sun. The conditions were harsh: food was meagre, medical care was inadequate, and physical and psychological abuses were common. Yet, within this environment, the prisoners found ways to resist and maintain their dignity. Despite the oppressive conditions, the prisoners turned Robben Island into a place of learning and political education. Mandela and other leaders, such as Walter Sisulu and Govan Mbeki, used their time to teach younger inmates about politics, history, and the struggle for liberation. This informal education system earned the prison the nickname “The University of Robben Island.”

Mandela’s time on Robben Island was marked by his resilience and his ability to inspire those around him. His refusal to compromise on his principles, despite numerous offers for conditional release, underscored his commitment to justice and equality. During his imprisonment, Mandela’s reputation grew, making him a global symbol of resistance against tyranny.

The struggle against apartheid continued both within South Africa and internationally. Mounting internal resistance, combined with global economic sanctions and diplomatic pressure, eventually forced the apartheid government to reconsider its policies. In 1990, Nelson Mandela was released from prison, a moment that signalled the beginning of the end for apartheid.

The fall of apartheid and the subsequent democratic elections in 1994, which saw Mandela elected as South Africa’s first black president, transformed Robben Island from a symbol of oppression into one of hope and reconciliation. In 1997, the island was declared a museum and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, dedicated to preserving the memory of the struggle for freedom and human rights.

Hallway in Robben Island

Visiting Robben Island Today

Visiting Robben Island today is a journey into the heart of South Africa’s complex history. The island, accessible by ferry from the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town, offers a profound experience for those seeking to understand the depths of the nation’s past and the resilience of its people.

The Ferry Ride

The journey to Robben Island begins with a ferry ride across the choppy waters of Table Bay. As the mainland recedes, the imposing silhouette of Table Mountain provides a breathtaking backdrop.

A Guided Tour

Upon arrival, visitors are greeted by former political prisoners who now serve as tour guides, providing an authentic and deeply personal perspective on the island’s history. Their narratives, filled with firsthand accounts and anecdotes, bring the past to life in a way that no textbook ever could. The tour typically starts with a bus ride around the island, offering glimpses of the various historical sites, including the limestone quarry where prisoners were forced to labour under harsh conditions.

The Prison Complex

The highlight of the visit is undoubtedly the tour of the prison complex itself. Walking through the corridors, visitors can imagine the sounds of the past—the clanging of cell doors, the murmur of voices, the palpable tension of lives confined. Mandela’s cell, now a place of pilgrimage, remains untouched, a stark reminder of the years he spent in solitary confinement.

Other cells have been preserved as well, each telling a different story of the men who were imprisoned there. The prison courtyard, once a place of brief respite and guarded camaraderie, offers a view of the Table Mountain—a constant yet unreachable symbol of freedom for the inmates.

The Museum and Exhibits

Robben Island Museum, located within the prison complex, houses a collection of artefacts, photographs, and documents that chronicle the island’s history. Exhibits provide a broader context of the apartheid era, the struggle for liberation, and the lives of those who were imprisoned. The museum also explores the island’s earlier history, offering a comprehensive look at its multifaceted past.

The Island’s Natural Beauty

Despite its dark history, Robben Island is also a place of natural beauty. The island’s flora and fauna are protected, and visitors can see a variety of bird species, including penguins and cormorants. The island’s rugged coastline and serene landscapes offer a stark contrast to the harsh conditions once endured by its human inhabitants.

Robben Island stands as a testament to the strength of those who fought for freedom and equality. For those drawn to dark tourism, Robben Island is a must-visit destination, offering a profound and moving journey through history.

Robben Island Dark Tourism In Africa

Tourist Information

Location: Robben Island is situated about 7 kilometres (4.3 miles) west of the coast of Bloubergstrand in Cape Town, South Africa.

Getting there: The only way to reach Robben Island is by ferry, which departs from the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town. The ferry ride takes approximately 30-40 minutes each way.

Opening Times: Tours are available throughout the year, with multiple departures daily. It’s recommended to check the official Robben Island Museum website for the most current schedule and availability.

Prices: Tickets typically range from ZAR 600 to ZAR 700 for adults and around ZAR 300 to ZAR 400 for children (prices subject to change). This includes the ferry ride and the guided tour of the island.

Dress Code: Wear comfortable, weather-appropriate clothing and sturdy walking shoes. The island can be windy, so layers are advisable.

Additional Tips

  • Book in Advance: Tours can sell out quickly, especially during peak tourist seasons. Booking your tickets in advance is highly recommended.
  • Arrive Early: Arrive at the V&A Waterfront early to ensure you have enough time for boarding and to explore the waterfront area.
  • Bring Water and Snacks: While there are some facilities on the island, it’s a good idea to bring your own water and snacks for the tour.
  • Respect the Site: Remember that Robben Island is a place of historical significance and reflection. Maintain a respectful demeanour throughout your visit.
  • Photography: Photography is allowed, but be mindful of your surroundings and the experience of other visitors.